This MPI-DP-13 steering wheel was in rough shape when I received it. A Super Late Model driver from Georgia had used it since 2014 in an Asphalt series. He thought it was shot and listed it on eBay for $70. I snagged it!
This is an awesome steering wheel. Many of your favorite Nascar drivers use this exact steering wheel every Friday, Saturday, or Sunday in the race. Usually in a 15-inch variation, but there are 13,14,15, or 16 available in this same steering wheel.
Now this steering wheel was very dirty, but not lost. When I unboxed it, my initial impressions were, “wow, this dirty” “this guy must of had oil and bearing grease caked in his hands each time he drove”. So, I started to get to work. The 10-2 location was the worst part. It was heavily soiled with grime and most likely grease. It would appear the driver used gloves on some occasions, but perhaps not all. None the less, I started to scrub the outer half of the steering wheel with a MPI-A-SB Steel Steering Wheel Brush. Once I was able to get the initial surface to bristle a little, I grabbed my can of Sonax Alcantara Cleaner and a couple of clean and dry microfiber cloths.
1st – Lightly apply the Sonax Alcantara Cleaner to the outside portion of the wheel.
2nd – Use warm water and get one of the microfiber cloths wet. Ring it out so it is not dripping wet. Take the damp cloth and wrap it around the steering wheel where you applied the Sonax. With the cloth wrapped around the wheel, and your hand gripping the cloth and wheel, move your hand in a back and forth motion. This will help start to lift the Alcantara fibers and expose the dirt that is hidden underneath. You will start to notice the cloth getting dirty. You can either rinse it out or move on to a cleaner cloth. Keep repeating this process until the cloth is no longer displaying dirt after you have completed the above process on the steering wheel. Once you are satisfied with the results, move on to the next section of the wheel that is dirty and repeat the process.
3rd – After you are satisfied that the wheel is clean, wait for it to dry and take the MPI-A-SB Steel Steering Wheel Brush and use the rubber side to bring back the memory of the Alcantara. You may have to lightly use the steel side to get it started. You’ll notice that the smaller 13″ wheel on the left is lighter colored now after cleaning. This is due to the heavy soiling the wheel experienced prior to cleaning. If your wheel has been only used indoors for Sim Racing. Chances are, it won’t turn light gray as did this 13″ MPI wheel.
That is, it. Your Alcantara wheel is ready for its new journey. Check out the links below to the products used in this article. These links help support SK Sim Racing, and our continued efforts to bring Sim Racing content to you, The Sim Racer.
Note: These are recommendations. Not all wheels will require this intense of a cleaning process. Your wheel may require a more or less intense cleaning. Always read the instructions on cleaning products or tools prior to use. SK Sim Racing is not responsible for damage to wheels caused by these recommendations. Use good judgement. Safety glasses are recommended when using liquid chemical agents.
A wheel hub sits at the center of your steering setup. It determines how many wheel rims you can use, how flexible your rig becomes, and how future-proof your investment is.
For Fanatec, that matters enormously.
Because the more useful the hub becomes, the more valuable the entire Fanatec ecosystem becomes.
But hubs often determine whether an ecosystem feels frustrating… or brilliant.
This new Fanatec Wheel Hub feels like one of those products that may not trend as hard on day one—but months from now people may realize it was one of Fanatec’s smartest moves.
It supports customization. It supports loyalty. It supports future upgrades. And it supports racers who want one setup that can do everything.
That’s why I believe this release could be a genuine game changer for Fanatec.
Final Verdict
The new Fanatec Wheel Hub may not be the flashiest product launch of the year.
But it could be one of the most important.
Because when you improve the center of the system… everything connected to it gets stronger.
FTC Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. That helps support independent sim racing reviews and content.
You know I’ve been deep in the Pimax Crystal Light for the past six months now.
I dropped my first impressions and that full iRacing setup guide pretty early on, but those were fresh-out-of-the-box thoughts. Now? After countless league races, long stints, and going wheel-to-wheel in traffic, I can finally tell you what’s actually stuck—and why this headset keeps delivering week after week.
The moment I first slipped it on, the clarity hit me hard—and it never faded. Race after race, that sharpness is still there, making everything pop in a way that just feels right for sim racing.
What surprised me even more is how much easier everything became to read. Dash details, spotter calls, brake markers, and even cars way up the road? They’re all crisp and effortless. Over a full 30- or 60-minute race, that reduced eye strain adds up big time. You stay fresher, stay focused, and honestly just enjoy the drive more.
One of the biggest game-changers for me has been the improved sense of distance and depth. It didn’t scream at me on day one, but after a few weeks I noticed I was hitting braking points earlier, carrying more speed into corners, and committing with way more confidence—especially on tracks with long sightlines.
It stops feeling like you’re reacting and starts feeling like you’re actually anticipating the lap. That shift alone has leveled up my consistency in league racing.
And don’t even get me started on running in traffic. Staying nose-to-tail with other cars, judging gaps left, right, and in depth—everything feels more natural. There were multiple times I would’ve backed out before, but with the Crystal Light I trusted what I was seeing and stayed in the fight.
When I swapped back to triples for a quick comparison? The difference in depth perception was night and day. I found myself second-guessing stuff I never question anymore. That’s when I knew this headset had genuinely changed how I drive.
Comfort Over the Long Haul
Yeah, I’ll be honest—early on I was a little worried. The Crystal Light isn’t the smallest headset out there, and it does have that solid “brick” look. Weight and comfort were definitely on my mind.
But after months of longer sessions, those concerns basically disappeared. It just becomes part of the rig. You stop thinking about the hardware and lock in on the racing. When the headset fades into the background and all you’re focused on is driving—that’s when you know it’s doing its job right.
It’s a wired PC VR headset, so yes, there’s a cable. But in practice? You barely notice it once you’re in the session. It hasn’t felt restrictive even during endurance-style races. If cable management is a big deal for you, Pimax also offers their VR Wire Bundle that keeps everything tidy and out of the way.
Another nice touch: they include a prescription lens bundle at no extra cost if you wear glasses in VR. That alone makes it an easy win for a lot of sim racers.
You can still use my code sksimracing for a nice little discount on the headset and any bundles.
My Current PC Setup (For Those Asking)
A bunch of you have been asking what I’m running this on, so here’s the quick rundown:
Intel Core Ultra 9 285K (3.2GHz) Processor
Gigabyte Z890 AORUS ELITE X ICE
64GB DDR5-6000 RAM
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 Graphics Card
2TB NVMe SSD
2.5GbE LAN, WiFi 7 (802.11be), Bluetooth 5.4
Windows 11 Pro
Quick Specs Overview
For the spec nerds out there, here’s what the Pimax Crystal Light brings to the table:
Resolution: 2880 x 2880 per eye
Refresh Rates: 72, 90, 120 Hz
Field of View: 105° horizontal
Display: QLED + Mini-LED with optional local dimming
Lenses: Aspheric Glass
On paper it looks strong. On track? It actually delivers. You feel the clarity and precision translate straight into better lap times and more confidence behind the wheel.
After six solid months, there wasn’t one single “wow” moment that carried the whole experience. Instead, it was the steady, day-in-day-out improvements that won me over. I’m driving more naturally, more consistently, and honestly—it just feels a whole lot closer to real racing.
If you’re serious about taking your sim racing to the next level, the Pimax Crystal Light is absolutely worth a look.
Let me know what headset you’re currently running—I’m always down to talk sim gear!
Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend gear I actually use and believe in.