E-Stops, and why we need them. Both the Simucube 2 Sport and Pro come with a basic E-Stop Torque off button. For Fanatec, the DD1 does not come with an E-Stop, but it’s offered as an accessory from the Fanatec Shop. The DD2 does come with a Premium E-Stop which differs in the aspect that it offers an On/Off button to control the power of the motor base itself. This gives the driver convenience as opposed to having to reach behind your motor base to turn it off when needed. This can be especially important for drivers who have their rigs setup with the monitors overlapping their wheelbase, which can make it hard to reach the bases backside.
There are many arguments as far as where the E-Stop should be placed on the rig. Some say it has to be by your leg, so you can turn hit the button with the side of your knee in an emergency. I prefer to have it mounted to a length of profile on my right side. If the wheel becomes erratic, I’m going to let go, which allows me to use my right hand to hit the E-Stop button. There’s no right/wrong answer. It’s whatever each individual driver prefers.
As far as what version of E-Stop button should you choose? Well, that’s up to you. There is a cost difference for the Simucube variants. The basic model is included in the Sport and Pro, and the Premium is standard in the Ultimate and optional to purchase for those who own a Sport or Pro. The Premium has predrilled holes for mounting that accept M4 bolts with approximate lengths of 25mm to 30mm depending on what size profile you’re mounting to. You’ll need two M4 T-Nuts to install it into the profile. I personally prefer the Premium version along with the standard version that comes with the DD2, since they have the on/Off button. This makes shutdown at the end of an evening of racing, much easier.
Whichever way you decide to go, make sure you get/install one regardless. You’ll need it at some point in your racing ventures.
A wheel hub sits at the center of your steering setup. It determines how many wheel rims you can use, how flexible your rig becomes, and how future-proof your investment is.
For Fanatec, that matters enormously.
Because the more useful the hub becomes, the more valuable the entire Fanatec ecosystem becomes.
But hubs often determine whether an ecosystem feels frustrating… or brilliant.
This new Fanatec Wheel Hub feels like one of those products that may not trend as hard on day one—but months from now people may realize it was one of Fanatec’s smartest moves.
It supports customization. It supports loyalty. It supports future upgrades. And it supports racers who want one setup that can do everything.
That’s why I believe this release could be a genuine game changer for Fanatec.
Final Verdict
The new Fanatec Wheel Hub may not be the flashiest product launch of the year.
But it could be one of the most important.
Because when you improve the center of the system… everything connected to it gets stronger.
FTC Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. That helps support independent sim racing reviews and content.
You know I’ve been deep in the Pimax Crystal Light for the past six months now.
I dropped my first impressions and that full iRacing setup guide pretty early on, but those were fresh-out-of-the-box thoughts. Now? After countless league races, long stints, and going wheel-to-wheel in traffic, I can finally tell you what’s actually stuck—and why this headset keeps delivering week after week.
The moment I first slipped it on, the clarity hit me hard—and it never faded. Race after race, that sharpness is still there, making everything pop in a way that just feels right for sim racing.
What surprised me even more is how much easier everything became to read. Dash details, spotter calls, brake markers, and even cars way up the road? They’re all crisp and effortless. Over a full 30- or 60-minute race, that reduced eye strain adds up big time. You stay fresher, stay focused, and honestly just enjoy the drive more.
One of the biggest game-changers for me has been the improved sense of distance and depth. It didn’t scream at me on day one, but after a few weeks I noticed I was hitting braking points earlier, carrying more speed into corners, and committing with way more confidence—especially on tracks with long sightlines.
It stops feeling like you’re reacting and starts feeling like you’re actually anticipating the lap. That shift alone has leveled up my consistency in league racing.
And don’t even get me started on running in traffic. Staying nose-to-tail with other cars, judging gaps left, right, and in depth—everything feels more natural. There were multiple times I would’ve backed out before, but with the Crystal Light I trusted what I was seeing and stayed in the fight.
When I swapped back to triples for a quick comparison? The difference in depth perception was night and day. I found myself second-guessing stuff I never question anymore. That’s when I knew this headset had genuinely changed how I drive.
Comfort Over the Long Haul
Yeah, I’ll be honest—early on I was a little worried. The Crystal Light isn’t the smallest headset out there, and it does have that solid “brick” look. Weight and comfort were definitely on my mind.
But after months of longer sessions, those concerns basically disappeared. It just becomes part of the rig. You stop thinking about the hardware and lock in on the racing. When the headset fades into the background and all you’re focused on is driving—that’s when you know it’s doing its job right.
It’s a wired PC VR headset, so yes, there’s a cable. But in practice? You barely notice it once you’re in the session. It hasn’t felt restrictive even during endurance-style races. If cable management is a big deal for you, Pimax also offers their VR Wire Bundle that keeps everything tidy and out of the way.
Another nice touch: they include a prescription lens bundle at no extra cost if you wear glasses in VR. That alone makes it an easy win for a lot of sim racers.
You can still use my code sksimracing for a nice little discount on the headset and any bundles.
My Current PC Setup (For Those Asking)
A bunch of you have been asking what I’m running this on, so here’s the quick rundown:
Intel Core Ultra 9 285K (3.2GHz) Processor
Gigabyte Z890 AORUS ELITE X ICE
64GB DDR5-6000 RAM
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 Graphics Card
2TB NVMe SSD
2.5GbE LAN, WiFi 7 (802.11be), Bluetooth 5.4
Windows 11 Pro
Quick Specs Overview
For the spec nerds out there, here’s what the Pimax Crystal Light brings to the table:
Resolution: 2880 x 2880 per eye
Refresh Rates: 72, 90, 120 Hz
Field of View: 105° horizontal
Display: QLED + Mini-LED with optional local dimming
Lenses: Aspheric Glass
On paper it looks strong. On track? It actually delivers. You feel the clarity and precision translate straight into better lap times and more confidence behind the wheel.
After six solid months, there wasn’t one single “wow” moment that carried the whole experience. Instead, it was the steady, day-in-day-out improvements that won me over. I’m driving more naturally, more consistently, and honestly—it just feels a whole lot closer to real racing.
If you’re serious about taking your sim racing to the next level, the Pimax Crystal Light is absolutely worth a look.
Let me know what headset you’re currently running—I’m always down to talk sim gear!
Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend gear I actually use and believe in.